Cabinetmaker. In 1921 he became one of the founders of the Communist...
Like any living organism, it has its own individuality. Each season has its own set of pros and cons to take into account when deciding to plant.
The natural truth is this: wood and earth are two parts of the indivisible. Therefore, you can reunite them - that is, plant a tree in the ground - at any time of the year (excluding the period when the earth is not able to take root - when it is frozen). Another thing is the sum of other accompanying conditions. It is she who determines how the seedling will take root, how it will develop further. Therefore, each plant has its own favorable time for planting and transplanting. And since autumn is in the yard, let's remember which trees should be planted right now (and why so).
As soon as the autumn chores are completed, seedlings with carefully covered roots appear in the hands of summer residents going to their plots. A short, but very responsible time for planting trees begins, and whoever is convinced of the correctness of the autumn choice is not mistaken at all.
- It's more profitable
- It is easier
- It saves time
Autumn planting is especially favorable in the southern regions, where winters are “warm”. The earth does not freeze to the depth of the roots, and young trees are not threatened with hypothermia and freezing.
- Strong frosts capable of destroying immature trees.
- Winter is rich in stressful situations for seedlings: strong wind, ice, snowfalls and other weather troubles can break young plants.
- In late autumn and winter, seedlings are often damaged.
- Well, during the absence of the owners, seedlings in the country simply can steal other lovers of fruit trees.
In the next video - practical tips on which plants are best planted in the fall
What trees and shrubs take root well during autumn planting
- Winter-hardy apple and pear varieties
- AT central Russia autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October.
- AT northern regions- beginning of September to beginning of October
- AT southern regions- from October to mid-November
The timing is dictated by the weather. Each year, the borders can “float” and differ significantly from the dates of previous years. There were years when it was possible to plant trees until the last days of November.
- An important guideline: the best time for planting (transplanting) any seedlings is the period of their biological dormancy. Its coming is evidenced by end of leaf fall.
And all you need to do is take care of it, so that then you can plant it on the site. Based on practice, three of the most common methods are used for this:
- storage in a cold damp (cellar),
- snowing,
- digging in the ground.
- Basement storage
- snowing
Gardeners southern regions It is better to plant trees in autumn. In these parts, autumn is long, warm, with occasional rains, which is “the very thing” for seedlings. But spring here too quickly can be replaced by a hot summer.
seedlings, which dug ahead of schedule(before natural leaf fall) most often have unripened shoots and almost always freeze slightly.
If you bought a “beautiful tree” with leaves for planting, you risk getting not only unripened, but also overdried seedling, because the main loss of moisture goes through the leaf plate. And how to choose the right seedling, you can learn from the article
Many crops can be planted in autumn: beets, garlic, dill, parsley, sorrel, parsnips, raspberries, currants, apple trees, pears, plums and others. When choosing a site for sowing, proceed from the fact that both in spring and autumn there is no stagnant water, and in winter there is a thick layer of snow. Seeds should be taken more than during spring sowing, about a third.
Garlic
Usually winter garlic is planted 2-3 weeks before the expected frost. But if you plant the seeds not at the standard depth of 3-5 cm, but deeper than 10-15 cm), then planting can be done from the beginning of September until about mid-October. With a greater deepening, winter garlic takes root more easily and hibernates better.
For sowing garlic, you need a well-lit area. Planting material is better to use your own - or at least purchase local varieties. Select the largest heads, inspect them for mechanical damage and external signs of disease (rot, gray or green spots). Before planting, disassemble the heads of garlic into cloves, discarding the smallest ones.
In non-shooting varieties of garlic, only the cloves of the outer tier are used for planting. Soak individual cloves of garlic for a day in a solution of potassium permanganate 0.1% (the water should turn out slightly pink) or copper sulfate in a proportion of 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water. Garlic is planted according to the scheme 10X15 cm, covered with compost, and in cold regions they must be mulched with sawdust or fallen leaves with a layer of 7-10 cm.
Winter garlic should not be planted in areas where manure was introduced this year: garlic will give abundant tops and will be less resistant to fungal diseases.
Beet
In order to collect young beets already in June, plant them before winter. Suitable varieties that are resistant to bolting and specially designed for autumn planting (pay attention to their names - cold-resistant, winter, etc.). Beet sowing time depends on your climate and varies from late October to late November.
Beets are cold-resistant plants; their seeds germinate at temperatures below 10°C. According to popular belief, beets should be sown after the cherry leaf has fallen. Beets love sunny areas; in the shade, root crops form much worse, lose their rich color. The best predecessors for beets are cucumber, onion, potato, tomato. And after carrots, cabbage and beets themselves, root crops should not be planted in any case.
It should be borne in mind that beets do not tolerate increased soil acidity, and when grown on heavy clay soils, root crops grow in an ugly shape, and the yield decreases. The sowing of beets itself is not difficult, but for sprinkling seeds, you need to prepare a substrate in advance from garden soil, rotted compost and sand in equal proportions. It is better to mulch with dry peat. The harvest of winter beet sowing is unsuitable for long-term storage.
Greens
Before winter, you can plant dill, leaf parsley, sorrel. The advantage of this planting is that you can harvest in early summer. And the seeds that have overwintered in the open field germinate much better than during spring planting. All you have to do is prepare dill, parsley or sorrel seeds for fall planting.
You can do it like this. Put the seeds in a gauze bag and soak for 3 days in warm water (about 50 °). Drain the settled water 3-5 times a day. This will disinfect the seeds and speed up the emergence of sprouts. Put the treated seeds on cheesecloth, cover with a damp cloth or steamed sawdust and leave for 3-4 days at a temperature of 20 °, until sprouts appear. Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried and sown in moist soil.
Fruit trees and shrubs
Autumn is the best time to plant apple, pear and plum trees. Overwintered seedlings take root much better than during spring planting, and get sick less. For their landing, the southern or southwestern side of the site or any other sunny place is perfect. For fruit bushes, such as raspberries, blackcurrants, gooseberries, partial shade is also suitable. When planting seedlings, consider their proximity to each other.
First, if you have a small area, a stepped landing is required. Secondly, their compatibility should be considered. So, the pear gets along well with black mountain ash and apple, but does not tolerate cherries, hawthorn, viburnum, juniper. Cherry plums, plums or apricots should not be planted near cherries, otherwise they will not bear fruit.
Flowers
In autumn, crocuses, hyacinths, irises, daffodils, tulips, adonis, clematis and other perennials, as well as some annual plants can be planted in the country: viola, cornflower, lavatera, iberis, calendula, clarkia and others. Of the ornamental shrubs in autumn, hawthorn and barberry take root better.
There is always work in the country, spring is the sowing of seedlings of vegetables and flowers, seedlings of fruit trees. Summer - care of crops and harvesting. Autumn - soil preparation after the release of the beds, sowing and planting before winter.
What vegetables to plant in the fall
Onion sets for turnip
Onion sets are 1-3 cm in diameter, but we plant the smallest, 0.8-10 mm in size. It is in autumn that such onion sets are available (sold in every market), which has a great advantage - small sets do not form flower arrows, the greens from it are weak and small, but the bulbs ripen already in early July.
- Planting pattern: 4-5 cm between bulbs in a row, 12-13 cm between rows.
Plant in late September - early October or until early November in the southern regions.
The best varieties: Onion sets Carmen, Sturon - they shoot less.
Onions on greens
Planting material - onion samples or large onion sets. The best harvest is given by a multi-primary large onion sample, in which the diameter of the bulbs is 3-4 cm, the greens from it are juicy and tender. It is necessary to plant onion sets in late autumn, 2 weeks before stable frosts, so that the roots have time to peck, take root, but the feather growth does not start.
In central Russia, the optimal time for planting onions on greens before winter is the end of September - the beginning of October. Lower Volga region, south of Russia - late October - early November. Planting depth in the soil is 4-5 cm, then a layer of mulch about 10 cm high from humus or peat, until spring - mulch is needed in early spring. It is not necessary to water the sown sevok!
Black onion before winter
Onions are propagated not only by bulbs, but also by seeds that are black, hence the name. The peculiarities of sowing before winter is that we do not have the opportunity to soak the seeds and reject those that do not sink (empty ones float up), in addition, changeable weather in winter will automatically lose part of the crops, i.e. the seed material needs to be increased by 15-20%.
Planting dates - approximately the end of October or November, when the ground is already freezing, you can sow under the snow, quite late, even in a thaw in winter, it is important to know that at a temperature of + 2-3 ° C, the seeds of nigella begin to germinate, we do not see this ( in warm weather shoots in 2.5-3 weeks). Therefore, it is necessary to prevent germination in the fall, but in the spring, the sooner the onion sprouts, the better, so it is worth planting on raised beds (20-25 cm high) - they warm up faster with the spring sun.
- Seeding scheme: up to 2.5 cm between shifts, 18-20 cm between rows. If the seedlings are thick, thin out. Seeding depth 1.5 cm.
Black onion crops in regions with severe winters need to be mulched with 3-4 cm of humus or peat, or with leaf litter or sawdust.
Varieties: Danilovsky, Myachkovsky, Strigunovsky, Odintsovsky.
Garlic
Winter garlic is planted in the second half of September - early October, or about a month and a half before the onset of stable cold weather. For planting, we select large cloves from large bulbs - the larger the planting material, the larger the heads of garlic will grow in the next years.
We divide the head of garlic into teeth on the day of planting, first removing the bottom (its remains will prevent the teeth from germinating).
- Planting pattern: between cloves in a row 15-20 cm, planting depth 4-6 cm, distance between rows 20 cm.
Carrot
Carrots are sown with seeds in spring and before winter, winter sowing has a number of advantages, although it is practiced less often - the risks of seed (sprout) death due to weather instability are too high. The biggest difficulty is to guess the timing of sowing so that the carrot seeds do not germinate, as well as sow the nigella 1.5-2 weeks before the frost, when the ground is already frozen and slightly dry. Landmark - a stable air temperature is not higher than 2-3 ° C. Seed consumption is increased by 15-20% to cover winter losses.
- Sowing pattern: between seeds 2-2.5 cm, between rows 20 cm, planting depth 2-3 cm.
Beet
Beets, like carrots, can be sown in November, before frosts, but the choice of varieties is very small: they mainly sow beets Cold-resistant-19 and Podzimnyaya-474, Bordeaux. The rest of the varieties shoot from the cold.
- Sowing pattern: between seeds about 10 cm, between rows 20 cm, planting depth 2-3 cm. Additionally, a layer of mulch 3-4 cm, which needs to be raked in spring.
The problem of winter sowing of carrots and beets is the same - unstable weather in winter leads to the fact that vegetables in the spring have poor, rare shoots, and weeds immediately "clog" them. Therefore, it is worth increasing the crop density by at least 15% and considering the feasibility of such work.
Radish
But radishes during winter sowing, on the contrary, are often justified - sowing in early November, the crop ripens by mid-late April, if the spring is protracted - by May. As in all other cases, there is no exact date for sowing, it is important that the seeds do not have time to germinate. We focus on the time when the temperature is about 0- + 1 ° С. If a thaw is possible according to the forecast, you need to wait.
- Sowing scheme: between seeds about 3 cm, between rows 10-15 cm, planting depth 2-3 cm. Additionally, a layer of mulch 3-4 cm (sawdust, straw, leaves, peat), which in spring must be covered with a film or agrospan until snow will start to fall.
Unfortunately, many varieties of radish are prone to shooting, preference can be given to the following: Mokhovsky, Sofit, Dungan, Würzburg, Red Giant, Variant.
leaf parsley
Before winter, leaf parsley seeds are sown in October-November under frosts, although leaf parsley is quite cold-resistant - it germinates at + 2-3 ° С, and seedlings hold out until it is colder than -7-9 ° С, we need to sow on such days so that the seeds sprouted only in the spring. By the way, parsley planted in spring sprouts for a very long time, grows slowly, so winter sowing seriously speeds up the time for obtaining fresh herbs.
Sowing scheme: the distance between seeds is 2-3 cm, the distance between rows is 15 cm, the depth of embedding in the soil is about 1.5 cm. For more details - “Leaf parsley - cultivation and care”.
Lettuce, head and watercress
Lettuces also germinate well in the spring, amicably, grow quickly, but some gardeners sow this crop before winter. Sowing dates: late October - early November, or later if the autumn is long.
Suitable varieties are mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties: Large-headed, Emerald, Berlin yellow. Early: Riga, Moscow greenhouse and New Year's are best sown in the spring in greenhouses or greenhouses.
If you are an enviable owner of a heated greenhouse, then leaf, head and watercress can be grown all winter, the choice of variety in this case depends on the possibility of additional illumination. But still, it is advisable to choose more shade-tolerant varieties, for example, the headed variety Dachnitsa.
Sowing scheme: in rows, with a distance between them of about 20 cm, to a depth of 1-2 cm, sow the seeds in a continuous ribbon, thin out when germination appears.
Parsnip
This root crop is sown before winter as well as carrots. Seeds are only freshly harvested, parsnips do not germinate well and quickly lose their germination capacity. Germinates at a temperature of +4-5°C, so sowing in late autumn, without soaking.
Varieties: Student and Guernsey.
Seeding pattern: 10-12 cm between seeds in a row, between rows 20 cm, planting depth about 3-4 cm.
Physalis
Physalis - a plant undeservedly deprived of attention, a relative of tomatoes has a specific taste. We are interested in varieties of vegetable physalis - these are Korolek, Gribovsky soil, Moscow early, Large-fruited, Likhtarik, as well as strawberry physalis, Peruvian and raisin physalis.
In spring, physalis is grown from seedlings, in autumn - seeds are sown. Sowing dates - in October - November, in fact, physalis reproduces well by self-sowing - the falling fruits rot, and the seeds germinate in the spring.
Sowing scheme: between seeds, the distance is 50 cm for berry (Peruvian) physalis, 60-70 cm for vegetable (Mexican). The distance between the rows is at least 70 cm. The depth of planting seeds before winter is 1.5-2 cm (1 cm in spring).
Dill
Dill in our gardens often grows by self-sowing - these are almost feral plants, there is not much greenery from them, only umbrellas for seaming cucumbers and tomatoes are good. If you need exactly salad greens of dill, it is worth selecting exactly varietal, good for winter sowing: Gribovsky, Abundant-leaved, Umbrella, Far, Grenadier.
Sowing dates for the middle lane: the end of October and the beginning of November, given that at + 3-4 ° C dill germinates.
Sowing scheme: between rows 15-20 cm (depending on the height of the variety), sowing in rows with a continuous tape, the excess can be thinned out in the spring. Seeding depth 2 cm, cover crops with leaves or straw.
Features of the winter sowing of vegetables
The most important thing to know is that if in your area in autumn and spring, during the period of the most abundant precipitation, or in winter, snow is blown away by the wind, winter crops should be abandoned.
If the autumn is very long, do not worry, any winter vegetables, including radishes, can be sown all winter, as long as the road to the garden is available. At least in December or January, while temperatures are slightly minus (-3-5 ° С).
The main thing is to prepare the beds in advance, because we will sow practically in the snow, sometimes after the first snow, on hard ground.
After harvesting at the end of summer, when the ground is soft and future plantings are planned, taking into account, we dig up the soil, removing weeds. If necessary, we apply fertilizers depending on the needs of the crop. For example, carrots do not tolerate organic matter; we do not add either humus or manure to its beds.
Be sure to level the ground, break up large clods and make grooves in advance - on the day of sowing, you are unlikely to succeed - the ground is frozen.
So, the holes have been prepared, you need to stock up on dry land for sprinkling seeds, pour it into buckets or bags and leave it in country house or a shed where she won't freeze.
On the day of planting, it remains only to distribute the seeds along the grooves and sprinkle with prepared soil. If necessary, mulch on top with leaf litter, spruce branches or straw.
Planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn
Autumn also has its own characteristics. All fruit and berry trees and shrubs are sold in two versions - with a closed root system (in containers) and a large clod of earth, and with an open root. In seedlings with an open root, the roots are very severely cut, by about 80-90% - such seedlings can be planted only in spring. Moreover, choose carefully - take a closer look at the plant - a seedling freshly dug in the nursery has young buds that begin to bloom, if they are not there, you run the risk of acquiring in the spring an unsold product in the fall that has almost no chance of taking root.
By the way, please note that when buying seedlings in the fall, preparations for winter begin - they must have signs of autumn wilting, yellowing or reddening of the leaves. Do not buy plants with juicy green leaves, without signs of "autumn" - they have not completed the vegetation cycle, they will die before winter.
Dates for planting seedlings in autumn: the end of September - October, depending on the region, two to three weeks before frost. Landing pits are prepared a few days before landing.
In the autumn planting of shrubs (currants, gooseberries), apple trees, pears and other trees, there is a risk of damage by rodents. There are many methods of protection, the most effective are a plastic mesh around the trunk (the higher, the better) or winding the trunk with nylon tights (they are too tough for rodents).
You also have to make sure that the ground under the seedling does not dry out until the very frost. Trees need to be insulated for the winter. In regions with severe winters, warming should be carried out in this way: at a distance of about 40 cm from the trunk of the seedling, drive in four pegs, cover with burlap and fill sawdust or leaves into the “well”.
In addition, as soon as the snow falls, the seedlings need to be additionally covered with snow and trampled on it, this will also help from mice - they make their way only in loose fluffy snow.
Autumn in the garden at the dacha, although characterized by a slight decrease in the intensity of work, still remains quite hot at times. It is for this reason that experienced gardeners and gardeners try to make the most of relatively warm days to ensure an increase in spring harvest.
In our article, we will tell you which crops are suitable for autumn planting, and how to properly prepare the soil for planting seed during this period.
plant varieties
Vegetables and greens
If you have, and you can look after her during the winter months, then there should be no problems at all. Buying or renting a diesel generator for a summer residence solves the problem of energy supply, and therefore, even in severe frosts, plants can develop and bear fruit.
With open areas, everything is more difficult: here you have to select cold-resistant crops that, after autumn planting, are able to endure even a significant cold snap and rise with the first warm days.
If we talk about vegetables and herbs familiar to us, then we give preference to the following types:
- Onion and garlic . Perhaps they are best suited for winter planting. We bury the bulbs and cloves of garlic in the ground about one and a half to two weeks before the first frost: this way they will have time to take root and will not give seedlings.
Note!
It is better to plant all onion sets in the fall, because even with the most careful storage conditions, it dries out before spring (about 70% loss of germination).
But in the ground, young onions feel quite comfortable.
- Carrot . The seeds of this root crop also tolerate a long period of dormancy when planted in the soil. The main thing is to deepen them by about a third more than during spring planting, otherwise germination may be reduced due to partial freezing.
- By the same principle, you can sow beets and rutabaga.: Like carrots, they will begin to sprout in early spring, and therefore the crop can be harvested about three to four weeks earlier than with standard planting.
- Also, winter sowing on beds with greens demonstrates high efficiency.. The instruction recommends growing crops such as parsley, dill, spinach, sorrel. Well, of course, frost-resistant varieties of salads are suitable for this purpose.
Fruit trees and shrubs
Arguing what can be planted in the country in the fall, many inexperienced summer residents are limited only to vegetables.
And don't forget about gardens.
- Firstly, it is quite possible to plant fruit trees for the winter - apple trees, pears, plums, etc.. In two or three weeks of relative warmth, they manage to take root, and therefore endure the winter well.
Advice!
It is better to take seedlings from nurseries: their price is, of course, higher, but this way you will be sure that you are purchasing a plant of the variety you need.
And their percentage of marriage fluctuates within acceptable limits.
- Secondly, in the same period, you can lay a plantation with berry bushes with your own hands. To do this, we purchase seedlings or cuttings of raspberries, currants, gooseberries, plant them in open ground and water them abundantly. After that, we mulch the ground around the bushes with straw or sawdust to preserve moisture and heat.
- Also in mid-September, you can plant or transplant strawberry bushes.. It is advisable not to delay this, since the plants take a little longer to root, so every warm day will count.
Flowers
Finally, we should decide what flowers are planted in the fall in the country. Here the choice is also quite extensive, even if you use only open ground.
For the autumn planting of flowers, it is useful to remember one rule: the smaller the bulb or rhizome, the sooner all work should be completed:
- In early September, we are transplanting small-bulb varieties. First of all, these are crocuses, scylla, chionodox, muscari, etc.
- Around the 20th we move on to daffodils. Also at this time, you can do the transplantation of daylilies and related crops.
- Finally, in late September - early October, the turn comes to tulips.
Note!
All dates given refer to central Russia.
In the southern regions, the dates need to be shifted by a week or two, or even a month: for example, lilies can be placed in the ground in mid-October.
- In addition to bulbous crops, tuberous plants can also be transplanted during this period.. First of all, these include chrysanthemums and dahlias, as well as dahlias, begonias, etc.
Usually country houses from the block - containers for the autumn-winter period are closed and left without heating at all. That is why it is extremely important that the soil both in closed greenhouses and in open beds at the end of summer - the beginning of autumn be qualitatively processed and prepared for planting.
Quite a lot to do:
- Firstly, by October there should be no tops, carrion and other plant residues left on the beds. We rake and compost the phytomass, otherwise in the spring we will get an excellent substrate for the development of pathogens.
- Before winter planting, we dig up the soil on a shovel bayonet, and then we apply a small amount of organic fertilizers.
Advice!
When planting rhizomatous plants, trees or shrubs, about 10 cm of humus can be laid under the soil layer: decomposing, it will provide a slight increase in temperature.
- Abundant watering during this period is undesirable: it is important for us that the seeds and tubers are at rest, and do not germinate before the onset of cold weather.
- Unforeseen frosts often occur in autumn, therefore, before snowfalls, the beds with planted plants, as well as the root zone of trees and shrubs, must be protected. For these purposes, agrofibre, old tarpaulin, sawdust, dry chopped needles, etc. can be used.
Conclusion
When choosing what to plant in the fall in the country, one should give preference to cold-resistant crops, the seeds and bulbs of which can easily endure a long dormant period. Our article provides recommendations for choosing suitable plants, but you yourself can find those species that will be optimal for winter growing in your area. In more detail, the technology of autumn plantings is shown in the video in this article.
In autumn, you can also grow vegetables on the site. You can grow and plant, it all depends on the goal that you are going to set for yourself. This issue should be examined in more detail, since there is a difference between just planting in the fall and growing in the fall, moreover, both of these concepts fit the phrase “autumn crops”.
Let's deal with the first - cultivation. There are crops with a short growing season, that is, these are crops whose ripening period lasts 20 to 30 days. These are mainly green crops and root crops, namely: lettuce, spinach, dill, onions on a feather, watercress, Beijing cabbage (sometimes it has time to ripen in the middle latitudes of Russia, but here, you need to pick up super early varieties), radish, radish, turnip - as well as Beijing cabbage, with a selection of appropriate varieties.
These crops are cold-resistant and feel the need for a temperature of 15-20 degrees, and therefore summer plantings may not always be successful. And this is where autumn plantings come to the rescue. After the summer heat, you can enjoy juicy, fragrant and crispy root crops. It is impossible not to notice that on the table in autumn, besides everything, there are tomatoes, peppers, etc.
All these crops can be grown in the autumn, but following the basic rules of agricultural technology. The first and most important rule is to plant immediately after harvesting the main crops. Since the deadlines are very tight, there is not a single day to lose. The second is soil conditions, it must be loose, water and breathable. It is advisable to plant plants on the southern slope or in areas protected from the northern winds. So this can shorten the period of growth and development of vegetable crops.
Before planting, you should fertilize the soil well, you can and even need to add nitrogen fertilizers. Form rollers between which there will be plants, the width between the rollers is 35 - 45 cm. Particular attention should be paid to additional covering materials. Already in early September, the probability of night frosts is high. And since the leaves of the same radish turn black at minus 3 - 5 degrees, we need to think about how we can cover it.
It can be anything from plastic film and window frames to rags and newspapers that you will put directly on the rollers. But despite all this, my advice to you is to use spunbond - a white material similar to fabric, but unlike a film, it transmits light, water, and air. There is no need to remove the film before watering, and the threat of overheating. Since the spunbond weighs very little, it can be "thrown" directly on the plants.
What is planted in the fall in the country?
Now let's talk about autumn plantings. To get a crop in early summer or even spring, they plant in the fall, often called winter crops. Since every minute is precious in spring, and we do not always have time to plant a seed in the ground, autumn crops come to the rescue. These can be crops of carrots, garlic, onions, spinach, rhubarb, sorrel, parsley, dill and other crops.
To get onions on a feather in early spring, onions are planted 10 to 15 days before a cold snap, so that it has time to take root and not dissolve its “feathers” too much. The turnip is planted with a half-bridge, and it is possible with a bridge method. This is when the bulbs are planted one close to the other, without any distance between them. The rows can be of any width, but given that you have to water and pluck them, make the rows about a meter wide, and the row spacing is 30 - 40 cm. The bulbs are planted a little pressing into the soil, after which they are lightly sprinkled with earth.
Garlic is planted in mid or late September. The soil for it is prepared in the fall, garlic is very responsive to pre-sowing tillage. It is planted in a wide-row way with row spacing of 45 cm, and the distance from each other between rows is 5-8 cm. The depth of cloves is 6-8 cm. It is advisable to cover garlic with hay, straw, corn stalks after autumn planting.
All other crops have similar requirements, the main thing is that their seeds do not have time to germinate in the fall, so they should be planted just before the frost. Of course, you need to select the appropriate varieties. Heavy, poor in humus, acidic soils are not suitable for such crops. When covering such crops with straw, hay or other material, make sure that there are no nests of mice, rats or other small pests under them, so their surface holes will not allow you to see the next year's planned crop or the planting material that you used in the fall. Elementary, you can decompose mousetraps or poisoned baits.
Thus, using autumn plantings, you prolong the period of consumption of fresh, self-grown vegetables. As you can see, no special efforts are required, but on the other hand, you can get an additional crop of vegetables in the first case or save time and get early, more friendly shoots in the spring. Both options are a good help for a modern summer resident, who has every minute and every piece of land in the account.
