How to supply water to the bath. Bath water supply in winter scheme. Pipe heater

The work of the Russian steam room is based on the effect of moist hot steam. The washing room should be equipped with a font or shower, all this suggests that water supply in the bath is necessary. You can always apply the required amount of liquid with buckets, but in winter, away from home, this can become very problematic and at least inconvenient.

In this article we will look at how water is carried out in the bath with our own hands.

General provisions

The distribution of water in the bath is determined immediately after the choice of the design of the structure itself. If you already know where the washing room, the water tank, the steam room and the possible bathroom will be located, then you need to carefully consider all possible approaches for the liquid and its drains..

The water supply to the bath should have the following qualities:

• No temperature drop below zero degrees Celsius. Even in winter, ice should not form. The repair cost will be quite high in the event of a rupture of frozen pipes.

• The simplicity of the device. Both the supply and the flow of water in the bath should have an easy implementation scheme.
• Constant availability of hot water for household needs. This even allows you to use washing machine, which is incredibly useful especially in a suburban area.

• Heating equipment safety. It must be installed taking into account all necessary precautions.
• Compliance with two modes of operation. This is the most difficult property to implement, which is that the steam room can work both in the “wet” mode of the Russian bath, and in the “dry” mode inherent in the Finnish sauna.

Tip: the firebox door is best placed in the sink.
This will increase fire safety, will significantly reduce the amount of furnace debris and carbon monoxide released in.

Mounting

How to conduct water from a well to a bath or from a well? First of all, a pumping station should be installed. This will automate the system and ensure the constant movement of water in it, which will largely prevent stagnation and freezing.

Project

The pressure power in such a system will vary from one to three atmospheres, which exceeds the flow of water in most city apartments.

Now let's take a look in detail:

1. Bath water tank.

1. The most important node in the drawing is the pumping station (2) and the electric boiler.

1. Water supply to the bath (1) through the plumbing system (4) led outside. The amount of liquid in the tank is controlled by a polyvinyl chloride cutting connected by a tee (6) to the drain (7) to the tap (8).
2. The emergency outflow of water from the bath (9) prevents the possibility of overflowing the liquid (1), transporting its excess amount to the external environment.
3. With the general liquid outlet (7) from the bath, the emergency drain in the bath (9) is also connected and leads outside.
4. The water supply to the bath is provided by an electric pump station (2), passing water through a special filtration system (10), which is selected taking into account the properties of the water used, and a back-action valve (11).
5. The shut-off cock (12) is used to stop the supply to the filtration system. If groundwater is used, then it can have a high content of bacteria and heavy metals, from the central water supply - bleach and rust. In any case, especially for drinking, the liquid must undergo high-quality filtration.
6. From the water supply station (2), water moves to the heater (3) and shower (14). In the boiler, the water goes through the heating process, but does not boil.
7. The washing machine, if necessary, can be connected to terminals (18) and (19).
8. Node A in the project is designed to prevent hot water from entering the normal water supply system.

Any airtight container can be used as a water tank. In this case, a plastic barrel with a capacity of five hundred liters is considered, which is quite enough for a week for four adults.

The pumping station is quite suitable for a membrane class with a volume of twenty-five liters.

To reduce the load on the water supply equipment, it is best to install a water tank from above. The operation of the pump will thus be much easier.

The boiler is quite suitable fifty-liter. We mount it at our own discretion, so that it is convenient.

For the implementation of all connections, metal-plastic pipes are conveniently suitable, which are easily cut with a hacksaw.

Waste system

Where does the bath water go? Without an automatic plumbing system, soil located under or near the building is sufficient. In our case, it follows.

You can use these options:

1. Storage device. It is nothing more than a large container buried in the ground. Cheap to implement, but expensive to maintain in case of frequent use. Because it does not have its own filtration system and needs to be cleaned with vacuum cleaners.

1. Septic tank with soil filtration system.
   More expensive and overall design, which has two cameras:
   
   • The first produces purification from large particles. Reaching a certain level, the drains are poured into the next tank.
   • The second, by exposure to bacteria, purifies the waste liquid.

1. Deep cleaning station. Such a septic tank, instead of soil filtration, has a third cleaning chamber, in which purification is achieved up to 98%. These are expensive equipment that require a constant supply of electricity. But it has a huge performance and absolutely does not need vacuum cleaners.

In order for the installation of the plumbing system to be successful, the following instructions will help you:

1. Be sure to draw up a detailed drawing in advance. As a basis, you can use the one given in the article, but with the necessary amendments for your building.
2. To protect the entire system from freezing, create a minimum slope towards the water flow. Otherwise, the ice can break the metal-plastic, which will lead to large-scale repair work after the first winter.
3. Ensure that all electrical systems used are carefully insulated. High humidity contributes to the possibility of electric shock. Use automata.

Conclusion

Water is of great importance in the work of baths and saunas. In addition to the steam room itself, it is necessary in the sink and a possible utility block. Having a washing machine or toilet always contributes to increased comfort.

For the normal operation of the system, you will need a pumping station, a boiler, a tank, a system of metal-plastic pipes and a well-thought-out sewer. Collecting them into one whole is carried out using a scheme. The article presents a workable project, but in the case of your own bath, you need to make adjustments based on your needs.

It is very important to protect the structure from freezing. This can lead to disastrous consequences.

Also take care of electrical protection. Since the presence of water significantly increases the risk of electric shock.

The video in this article will provide additional information on this topic. Approach the issue of installing a plumbing system with all responsibility, and as a result you will get a perfectly functioning bathhouse at any time of the year!

Competent water supply of the bath is a stream of clean water under constant pressure. Moreover, the pressure is comfortable, with calculated water heating. But, if everything is clear with the latter - there are boilers for this, or in extreme cases you can use the furnace heat exchanger - then with the first everything is a little more complicated. Because the same pressure of water in the bath is created by a pumping station - and it is not easy to equip it, but also to ensure a constant flow of high-quality water. But everything is possible - just follow our instructions.!

How to equip a good water source?

An important question is where to get water for a bath. Of course, the ideal source for it is a limestone well, called an artesian. But the price that the workers charge for drilling it discourages many bath attendants from even going into steam water at all.

There are also wells for sand - but they are often too sandy and serious filters need to be installed on them. This point is also worrisome - if the territory itself is radon, which cannot be checked by eye, then the water from it will contain a large amount of radioactive soil gas radon. That is why the best option is an ordinary well, the water for which can be found using a frame.

Once water is found, test drilling can be done and a well dug. It is only important to purchase the "correct" rings - with a thorn-groove system that are attached to each other. This will prevent possible horizontal displacement of the rings. It is good if the rings are additionally tied together with special metal brackets. And so that the high-water veins cannot get inside, when laying between the rings, it is advisable to make a seam from a special rubber tape of the RubberElast type. In extreme cases, a cable is suitable - foam, jute or linen. But you can’t lubricate it with bitumen - it is harmful, liquid glass is a waste, and only the quick-hardening mixture Plitonit Aquabarrier is suitable.

At the bottom of such a well, you need to make a bottom filter - from crushed stone, stones and geotextiles.

Around the well, the resulting space must be filled not with earth, but with sand - it will divert water from the walls and thereby reduce frost heaving. The insulation of the well will not interfere either - at least with the same extruded foam that does not give crumbs. And the top of the well must be covered - with a steel or plastic cover - so that leaves do not fall into it and then the entire water supply system of the bath does not clog, and you do not have to change the burned-out pumping station.

The outlet pipe will take the water from the well itself - it is important to make its entrance completely airtight. But not with bituminous mastic - the water will become contaminated from it and a tint color will appear on it. Waterproofing should be done multi-layered - with silicone, cement mortar, liquid glass and Kiilto fibrorubber.

Here's how it's done: a layer of silicone is placed on the hole in the ring and plastered with a mixture of waterproof and frost-resistant tile adhesive. When it dries, a layer of fiber rubber is applied - this is usually used to waterproof the shower. As it dries - another, already thicker layer. And after it, again plastering with a mixture of tile adhesive with liquid glass. The next day, all this is coated with blue clay and foam is laid, followed by loam. And all these manipulations are carried out both from the inside and from the outside.

Where and how to install a pumping station?

But already from the well, water will be supplied to the bath with the help of a pumping station - for example, from Gileks. It is quite noisy, but not expensive. Quieter and more expensive - Grundfos JP and Espa Technoplus. What is the difference between them? The fact is that inexpensive stations, as a rule, do not have any protection against dry running - and therefore for this you will have to add a special sensor at the pipe outlet.

Well, if an absolutely silent option of water supply in a bath is vital, this is a submersible pump right in the well.

To begin with, it is important to determine the place for the pumping station - during operation, it always makes a lot of noise and this noise has nothing to do with the comfortable silence of bath procedures. Therefore, it is better to install it in a separate boiler room or at least a dedicated part of the dressing room. The main thing is where there is no high humidity - it is dangerous for her.

Secondly, so that the pump does not turn on every three minutes and does not annoy anyone, it is advisable to equip the station with an additional receiver - about 50 liters in volume. This will also help equalize the pressure throughout the system. After all, it must be borne in mind that in most cases hot water is provided in the bath - and there are many subtleties in it.

It is possible to install additional equipment, such as a pipe heating cable. It all depends on your needs

What material is better to take pipes?

As for water pipes, metal-plastic ones are the most convenient - but because of the rubber gaskets that dry out on the street, they often fail and are not very suitable for a bath. Much better are polypropylene pipes, which are frost-resistant, do not rust and do not have any intermediate gaskets. But the water supply of the bath in winter is no less necessary than in summer.

And the wiring of the water supply system is also better done with polypropylene pipes. Moreover, from the pumping station to the filter, tank and manifold, pipes must be taken with a cross section of at least an inch. And the whole system looks like this: in the well, through a tee, a special tap is installed on the pipe to drain the entire system and a check valve with a large strainer. In front of the pump itself there is a coarse mesh filter - preferably with a carbon cartridge and a resource designed for 30 tons of water.

That's all! Do-it-yourself high-quality and reliable water supply of a bathhouse is not difficult to do - there would be a desire and a little time. But clean hot water in your favorite steam room will definitely please all household members!

There are several ways to organize the water supply of a bath from a well. They have different levels of complexity, cost and provide different degrees of comfort. But all of them have one thing in common: since baths are usually used not constantly, but periodically, the entire water supply system must be protected from freezing in winter. There are only two solutions: either ensure a constant positive temperature (heat the bath all the time) or make sure that there is nothing to freeze in pipes and other devices, i.e. ensure that water is drained from the system and devices.

The organization of water supply for baths and cottages can be done in different ways. There are very simple options that require a minimum of funds and time to organize, there are more complex ones, but providing a greater level of comfort.

The easiest and most economical way

The simplest option is to lower the submersible pump into the well (without a check valve), run the pipes through the air, but so that they are not horizontal, but have a slope either towards the well or towards the bath. Important: throughout this pipeline there should be no taps or other locking devices.

When turned on, the pump pumps water. While the water rises through the pipes and reaches the building, some time passes (depending on the depth of the water mirror and the distance to it, the pump power). When the container (bucket or tank) is almost full, the pump is turned off. The water remaining in the pipes partially flows into the tank, partially back into the well.

This system provides minimal convenience, but it is very simple and functions without failure even in winter. All that is needed for its performance in the winter is, which you can do yourself, spending a little time, money and effort.

With cantilever pump

There is a more complex scheme, but also not particularly expensive, but providing a higher level of comfort. It uses a cantilever pump.

In the diagram, it is installed in a bathhouse (or in a cottage in the country), and wiring is already coming from it. Such a water supply scheme from a well will be good, provided that the water level in the well is not lower than 5 meters and the water arrives well enough. With a greater depth, you will have to be smart - fill the suction water supply with water to the level of the cantilever pump, which will create better conditions for its operation and water will be able to flow from a depth of up to 7 meters.

To ensure the operability of such a water supply system in winter, it is necessary to insulate the canopy for the well. The exit of the pipe from the well (sealed) must be done below the level to which the soil freezes in winter in your area. At the same level, lead the pipeline to the place of entry into the room and there already raise it to the pump.

To prevent freezing of pipes in case of abnormal cold and freezing of the soil below the average, it is better to wrap them with heat-insulating materials or lay them deeper than the freezing point. Both options have their drawbacks: you either need to dig deeper than 1.5 meters (the usual freezing depth for the middle lane), which you don’t really want, or spend money on heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.

One of the options for maintaining the temperature of the pipeline in winter is to use a heating electric cable, but in this case you must have a guaranteed power source, which, alas, is not always realistic for rural areas. Costs are costs, but changing the entire pipeline after the winter is much worse. So one of the measures it is desirable to take after all.

With a storage tank in the attic

One of the varieties of such a scheme provides for the installation of a storage tank for water in the attic, in the attic, etc. This option is good because by pumping water into the tank, you can turn off the pump, and the water will flow into the comb by gravity. But in order to prevent water from freezing in pipes or in a tank in winter in an unheated room, you need to make a pipe to drain the water. It is desirable to bring it back into the well, well, or into the sewer system - as you decide for yourself. In this option, it will be necessary to think over everything well so that the amount of water in the valve pipes is minimal.

With water-air tank, hydraulic accumulator and control system

For those who do not want to endure absolutely no restrictions in terms of comfort, there are more complex schemes using modern equipment. It . They maintain constant pressure in the system, they can lift water from any depth, the main thing is to choose the right pump. Moreover, these systems can also pump water from a centralized water supply system, which is necessary if the system is worn out and the pressure in the network is low.

Scheme of water supply from a well with a hydraulic accumulator

What pipes to use for water supply from a well

When organizing water supply for summer cottages and baths, it is important to choose the right pipes. They should be:

• Safe, especially if you use the water for drinking.
• They are durable, since most of the pipeline is laid below the freezing level of the soil, the replacement entails a large amount of work.
• They tolerated temperature fluctuations well.
• Easy to install and repair.

Previously, only metal pipes were used. There were no other options. But they, firstly, quickly rust, and secondly, installation and replacement are possible only with a welding machine. Today there are other options.

Polypropylene pipes for water supply

In order for the water supply system to serve for a long time and properly, the best option for summer cottages and baths is polypropylene pipes. They feel great at low temperatures, when they are connected, rubber or other gaskets are not used, which eventually lose elasticity and require replacement. They do not emit any harmful substances, do not rot and do not oxidize, are not damaged by fungi and microorganisms, manufacturers claim a service life of about 50 years.

But. Polypropylene pipes require special welding equipment. A special soldering iron is used to heat the pipe. When heated, it is quickly connected to an angle, a tee, a tap, etc. Important: when welding, do not make any rotational movements. This is especially true for reinforced pipes. After connecting, give a couple of minutes to cool and you can continue to assemble the water pipe further. The device is not very expensive, and it is not necessary to buy it. In almost any company selling polypropylene pipes, you can rent a soldering iron for polypropylene.

Another good thing about polypropylene pipes is that they are available for both cold and hot water. That is, the internal wiring of the water comb in the room can also be made from the same material. Another plus: a flat and smooth outer surface, which is easy to care for and does not need to be painted.

Polyethylene

To supply cold water (it cannot be used for hot water), HDPE pipes are often used - low-pressure polyethylene. They have practically the same characteristics as polypropylene (they are not afraid of frost, do not rot and are not affected by fungi, but at the same time they are environmentally friendly), but they have one big plus: they can not only be welded, but also use detachable fittings. It is much more convenient, does not require special equipment, and repair / replacement becomes easier. How to connect HDPE pipes, see the video.

But, on the other hand, detachable fittings are a high probability of leakage. Therefore, they try to plan the pipeline in such a way that all collapsible fittings are in accessible places, and not underground.

Insulation and pressure compensation

When laying pipes (polyethylene or polypropylene - it does not matter), it is advisable to take measures to compensate for ground pressure. If your soils are heaving, this is a must. It is necessary to lay the pipe (preferably with insulation, but you can also without it) in a corrugated hose of a larger diameter. It will, firstly, serve as thermal insulation, and secondly, protect against excessive pressure.

There is also a tubular insulation "Energoflex", using which you can solve the issue of thermal insulation in one fell swoop and protect pipes from excessive loads.

Insulation for water pipes "Energoflex"

Recommendation based on personal experience: buy pipes and all corners-tees-faucets in one place, preferably located near the house / bathhouse. Why? Because it is rarely possible even for professionals to ideally calculate the entire scheme at once, so during the installation process you will have to buy, change, return something more than once, and sometimes not twice. Therefore, immediately upon purchase, find out how and what you can / need to do to exchange and return parts of the plumbing system.

Well thermal insulation

It is not very difficult to prevent the freezing of the water mirror - the water in the depth always has positive temperatures and all that is required is to prevent the cold from coming in from the outside. The thermal insulation of the well includes two components - the insulation of the mine and the installation of a protective house on the surface.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a concrete well

To insulate the well from the outside, you need to choose a material that does not absorb water. Usually polystyrene or polystyrene is used. These materials are inexpensive, durable and chemically neutral. Although there is one “but” - they are afraid of ultraviolet radiation - they are destroyed under its influence. This problem is easily solved: a house for a well is built around the insulation, or the material is lined with a finishing material outside.

A simpler and faster option is to apply paint to polystyrene or polystyrene in two layers. In this case, acetone paints should not be used: they corrode these materials. If the well is round, you can use polystyrene "shell" - products of a semicircular shape. It remains only to choose the appropriate diameter, connect the parts of the shell, and glue the joint with reinforced tape. If there is no such “shell” of a suitable size, polystyrene / polystyrene sheets can be cut into strips, and they are already attached to the well rings.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the well with polystyrene foam: at the top is the finished "shell", at the bottom - slab material cut into pieces

Thermal insulation material should be laid slightly below the freezing level of the soil in your area. To do this, they dig a well to a predetermined depth, install protection, fix it with tape or any other fasteners that you come up with. It is possible to protect against the effects of water, a couple of times wrap the entire structure over the insulation with plastic wrap (you can also fix it with tape). Next, you need to either build a wooden house for the well, or lay finishing materials - your choice.

There is another option for insulating the well - foamed polyurethane foam. This mixture is applied at a positive temperature (from +20 o C to +30 o C) using a special device. This mixture is inexpensive, as are the services for its application, but it has the advantage that the material fills all the cracks and defects in concrete rings, extending their service life. The disadvantage of such a material is the unpresentable appearance of the treated surface, but this is eliminated by exterior decoration or building a house for a well.

Cover / house for a well

Regardless of the complexity of the water supply system that you will install in your bath, the well must be equipped with a warm house, or at least an insulated cover. This is necessary, firstly, to prevent dust / dirt / leaves, etc. from entering the well, and secondly, so that the water does not freeze in severe frosts. Wooden wells do not need insulation - wood itself serves as an excellent heat insulator, but wells made of concrete rings need to be insulated.

In order to maintain a positive temperature in the well, some craftsmen lower a boiler equipped with a thermostat, which is set to operate at + 1 ° C, into the water. At this temperature, the boiler turns on, heats the upper layers of water and turns off. But such a scheme is real with a guaranteed power supply. Interruptions in electricity for 5-8 hours in cold weather, and that's it, the water will freeze.

It is more troublesome, but also more reliable - during construction, insulate the rings of the well from the outside, to the depth of freezing of the soil or slightly lower (just in case) and build a well-insulated house for the well on top.

There are two types of houses:

Cover for a well made of wood

It is also made of wood - while the board is taken quite thick (about 50 mm). It is even easier to build a cover for a well with your own hands than a house. The outer part can be square or round. Choose the dimensions to your taste, but they must exceed the diameter of the well.

The cover usually consists of two perpendicular (at 90 °) stacked layers of boards. The inner part must exactly match the shape and size of the well ring and fit tightly into it, blocking access to cold air.

Often, in order not to raise and lower it every time you need a bucket of water, a hinged door is made in the lid (the door should recline completely - it’s more convenient).

A canopy, a cover for a well and external insulation with a finish - a good protection against frost

It is possible, in addition to the cover, to make a canopy for the well. So the building becomes even more attractive, and the roof, albeit a small one, protects both the well and the one who collects water from precipitation or sunlight in the heat.

conclusions

Building a well near the bath is half the battle. It is also necessary to competently bring water from it to the bathhouse and insulate the well to prevent the formation of an ice plug in the winter.

There are several ways to organize the water supply of a bath from a well. They have different levels of complexity, cost and provide different degrees of comfort. But all of them have one thing in common: since baths are usually used not constantly, but periodically, the entire water supply system must be protected from freezing in winter. There are only two solutions: either ensure a constant positive temperature (heat the bath all the time) or make sure that there is nothing to freeze in pipes and other devices, i.e. ensure that water is drained from the system and devices.

Well water supply schemes

The organization of water supply for baths and cottages can be done in different ways. There are very simple options that require a minimum of funds and time to organize, there are more complex ones, but providing a greater level of comfort.

The easiest and most economical way

The simplest option is to lower the submersible pump into the well (without a check valve), run the pipes through the air, but so that they are not horizontal, but have a slope either towards the well or towards the bath. Important: throughout this pipeline there should be no taps or other locking devices.

When turned on, the pump pumps water. While the water rises through the pipes and reaches the building, some time passes (depending on the depth of the water mirror and the distance to it, the pump power). When the container (bucket or tank) is almost full, the pump is turned off. The water remaining in the pipes partially flows into the tank, partially back into the well.

This system provides minimal convenience, but it is very simple and functions without failure even in winter. All that is needed for its performance in the winter is an insulated house for a well, which you can do yourself, spending a little time, money and effort.

With cantilever pump

There is a more complex scheme, but also not particularly expensive, but providing a higher level of comfort. It uses a cantilever pump.

In the diagram, it is installed in a bathhouse (or in a cottage in the country), and wiring is already coming from it. Such a water supply scheme from a well will be good, provided that the water level in the well is not lower than 5 meters and the water arrives well enough. With a greater depth, you will have to be smart - fill the suction water supply with water to the level of the cantilever pump, which will create better conditions for its operation and water will be able to flow from a depth of up to 7 meters.

To ensure the operability of such a water supply system in winter, it is necessary to insulate the canopy for the well. The exit of the pipe from the well (sealed) must be done below the level to which the soil freezes in winter in your area. At the same level, lead the pipeline to the place of entry into the room and there already raise it to the pump.

To prevent freezing of pipes in case of abnormal cold and freezing of the soil below the average, it is better to wrap them with heat-insulating materials or lay them deeper than the freezing point. Both options have their drawbacks: you either need to dig deeper than 1.5 meters (the usual freezing depth for the middle lane), which you don’t really want, or spend money on heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.

One of the options for maintaining the temperature of the pipeline in winter is to use a heating electric cable, but in this case you must have a guaranteed power source, which, alas, is not always realistic for rural areas. Costs are costs, but changing the entire pipeline after the winter is much worse. So one of the measures it is desirable to take after all.

With a storage tank in the attic

One of the varieties of such a scheme provides for the installation of a storage tank for water in the attic, in the attic, etc. This option is good because by pumping water into the tank, you can turn off the pump, and the water will flow into the comb by gravity. But in order to prevent water from freezing in pipes or in a tank in winter in an unheated room, you need to make a pipe to drain the water. It is desirable to bring it back into the well, well, or into the sewer system - as you decide for yourself. In this option, it will be necessary to think over everything well so that the amount of water in the valve pipes is minimal.

With water-air tank, hydraulic accumulator and control system

For those who do not want to endure absolutely no restrictions in terms of comfort, there are more complex schemes using modern equipment. These are pumping stations. They maintain constant pressure in the system, they can lift water from any depth, the main thing is to choose the right pump. Moreover, these systems can also pump water from a centralized water supply system, which is necessary if the system is worn out and the pressure in the network is low.

Scheme of water supply from a well with a hydraulic accumulator

How to choose a place for a well, where to place it and how to dig it, read the article "Where, when and how to dig a well"

What pipes to use for water supply from a well

When organizing water supply for summer cottages and baths, it is important to choose the right pipes. They should be:

• Safe, especially if you use the water for drinking.
• They are durable, since most of the pipeline is laid below the freezing level of the soil, the replacement entails a large amount of work.
• They tolerated temperature fluctuations well.
• Easy to install and repair.

Previously, only metal pipes were used. There were no other options. But they, firstly, quickly rust, and secondly, installation and replacement are possible only with a welding machine. Today there are other options.

Polypropylene pipes for water supply

In order for the water supply system to serve for a long time and properly, the best option for summer cottages and baths is polypropylene pipes. They feel great at low temperatures, when they are connected, rubber or other gaskets are not used, which eventually lose elasticity and require replacement. They do not emit any harmful substances, do not rot and do not oxidize, are not damaged by fungi and microorganisms, manufacturers claim a service life of about 50 years.

But. Polypropylene pipes require special welding equipment. A special soldering iron is used to heat the pipe. When heated, it is quickly connected to an angle, a tee, a tap, etc. Important: when welding, do not make any rotational movements. This is especially true for reinforced pipes. After connecting, give a couple of minutes to cool and you can continue to assemble the water pipe further. The device is not very expensive, and it is not necessary to buy it. In almost any company selling polypropylene pipes, you can rent a soldering iron for polypropylene.

Another good thing about polypropylene pipes is that they are available for both cold and hot water. That is, the internal wiring of the water comb in the room can also be made from the same material. Another plus: a flat and smooth outer surface, which is easy to care for and does not need to be painted.

Polyethylene

To supply cold water (it cannot be used for hot water), HDPE pipes are often used - low-pressure polyethylene. They have practically the same characteristics as polypropylene (they are not afraid of frost, do not rot and are not affected by fungi, but at the same time they are environmentally friendly), but they have one big plus: they can not only be welded, but also use detachable fittings. It is much more convenient, does not require special equipment, and repair / replacement becomes easier. How to connect HDPE pipes, see the video.

But, on the other hand, detachable fittings are a high probability of leakage. Therefore, they try to plan the pipeline in such a way that all collapsible fittings are in accessible places, and not underground.

Insulation and pressure compensation

When laying pipes (polyethylene or polypropylene - it does not matter), it is advisable to take measures to compensate for ground pressure. If your soils are heaving, this is a must. It is necessary to lay the pipe (preferably with insulation, but you can also without it) in a corrugated hose of a larger diameter. It will, firstly, serve as thermal insulation, and secondly, protect against excessive pressure.

There is also a tubular insulation "Energoflex", using which you can solve the issue of thermal insulation in one fell swoop and protect pipes from excessive loads.

Insulation for water pipes "Energoflex"

Recommendation based on personal experience: buy pipes and all corners-tees-faucets in one place, preferably located near the house / bathhouse. Why? Because it is rarely possible even for professionals to ideally calculate the entire scheme at once, so during the installation process you will have to buy, change, return something more than once, and sometimes not twice. Therefore, immediately upon purchase, find out how and what you can / need to do to exchange and return parts of the plumbing system.

Well thermal insulation

It is not very difficult to prevent the freezing of the water surface - the water in the depth always has positive temperatures and all that is required is to prevent the cold from entering from the outside. The thermal insulation of the well includes two components - the insulation of the mine and the installation of a protective house on the surface.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a concrete well

To insulate the well from the outside, you need to choose a material that does not absorb water. Usually polystyrene or polystyrene is used. These materials are inexpensive, durable and chemically neutral. Although there is one “but” - they are afraid of ultraviolet radiation - they are destroyed under its influence. This problem is easily solved: a house for a well is built around the insulation, or the material is lined with a finishing material outside.

A simpler and faster option is to apply paint to polystyrene or polystyrene in two layers. In this case, acetone paints should not be used: they corrode these materials. If the well is round, you can use polystyrene "shell" - products of a semicircular shape. It remains only to choose the appropriate diameter, connect the parts of the shell, and glue the joint with reinforced tape. If there is no such “shell” of a suitable size, polystyrene / polystyrene sheets can be cut into strips, and they are already attached to the well rings.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the well with polystyrene foam: at the top is the finished "shell", at the bottom - slab material cut into pieces

Thermal insulation material should be laid slightly below the freezing level of the soil in your area. To do this, they dig a well to a predetermined depth, install protection, fix it with tape or any other fasteners that you come up with. It is possible to protect against the effects of water, a couple of times wrap the entire structure over the insulation with plastic wrap (you can also fix it with tape). Next, you need to either build a wooden house for the well, or lay finishing materials - your choice.

There is another option for insulating the well - foamed polyurethane foam. This mixture is applied at a positive temperature (from +20°C to +30°C) using a special device. This mixture is inexpensive, as are the services for its application, but it has the advantage that the material fills all the cracks and defects in concrete rings, extending their service life. The disadvantage of such a material is the unpresentable appearance of the treated surface, but this is eliminated by exterior decoration or building a house for a well.

Cover / house for a well

Regardless of the complexity of the water supply system that you will install in your bath, the well must be equipped with a warm house, or at least an insulated cover. This is necessary, firstly, to prevent dust / dirt / leaves, etc. from entering the well, and secondly, so that the water does not freeze in severe frosts. Wooden wells do not need insulation - wood itself serves as an excellent heat insulator, but wells made of concrete rings need to be insulated.

In order to maintain a positive temperature in the well, some craftsmen lower a boiler equipped with a thermostat, which is set to operate at + 1 ° C, into the water. At this temperature, the boiler turns on, heats the upper layers of water and turns off. But such a scheme is real with a guaranteed power supply. Interruptions in electricity for 5-8 hours in cold weather, and that's it, the water will freeze.

It is more troublesome, but also more reliable - during construction, insulate the rings of the well from the outside, to the depth of freezing of the soil or slightly lower (just in case) and build a well-insulated house for the well on top.

There are two types of houses:

Cover for a well made of wood

It is also made of wood - while the board is taken quite thick (about 50 mm). It is even easier to build a cover for a well with your own hands than a house. The outer part can be square or round. Choose the dimensions to your taste, but they must exceed the diameter of the well.

The cover usually consists of two perpendicular (at 90 °) stacked layers of boards. The inner part must exactly match the shape and size of the well ring and fit tightly into it, blocking access to cold air.

Often, in order not to raise and lower it every time you need a bucket of water, a hinged door is made in the lid (the door should recline completely - it’s more convenient).

It is possible, in addition to the cover, to make a canopy for the well. So the building becomes even more attractive, and the roof, albeit a small one, protects both the well and the one who collects water from precipitation or sunlight in the heat.

conclusions

Building a well near the bath is half the battle. It is also necessary to competently bring water from it to the bathhouse and insulate the well to prevent the formation of an ice plug in the winter.

Bath water supply in winter and summer

Bath water supply is a recent requirement. We are getting used to comfort more and more, and the tank, into which water is carried in buckets from the nearest well or stream, is already very few people. Increasingly, a complete bath water supply system is required.

Bath water sources

When planning a bath water supply system, first of all, you need to decide on the source from where the water will be taken. There may be several sources:

• centralized water supply;
• well;
• well.

The easiest way is, of course, with centralized water supply. You simply connect to the system, make the wiring for the site and the bath, pay for the use of services.

If there is no such luxury as centralized water supply, you need to take care of your own source of water. It could be a well or a well. Which one you need is up to you.

Artesian wells for water supply

Wells are artesian (it is more correct to call them wells to rich aquifers) or sandy. Artesian wells are not cheap. Aquifers lie quite deep from the surface of the earth and require the work of special equipment.

How deep you need to drill a well depends on the location of your bath. The range of depths is very large - from 30 to 300 meters. The spread is similar in the cost of drilling. But usually drilling artesian wells justifies itself. They have a lot of advantages:

Filter wells for water supply to summer cottages

Wells are also sand or filter. In this case, they are drilled to the nearest sandy layer. The depth of the wells in this case rarely exceeds 30 meters, but depends on the geological and hydrological structure of the soils in your area.

When organizing this type of water supply for a bath, it is imperative to make a filter column. Its complexity and structure depend on the degree of looseness of the sand layer: the looser the horizon, the greater the likelihood of clogging and sanding of the well, which means that the filter structure is more complex. Usually a combination of gravel and fine mesh filter, but much more multi-layer designs can be.

The main advantages of a well "on sand" are its low cost and high speed of its construction. But there are quite a few cons:

• It is impossible to predict how much water is contained in the aquifer, and how long such a well will “work”. Often its service life is only 5-7 years.
• A small amount of water does not allow pumping a lot of water per hour. The average amount is a cubic meter per hour (this is approximately the volume that flows from an open tap with a centralized water supply).
• When using a well "on sand", even with good filters, gradual siltation occurs. Often the bottom sludge reaches the submersible pump and disables it. With irregular, periodic use of the well, such a scenario is inevitable.
• You may be interested in reading "How to choose a water heater for a bath"

Wells for water supply

The traditional way to organize a source of water near the bath is to dig a well. It reaches the nearest aquifer, but does not differ in either the purity of the water or the stability of its level: during rains and floods, the water level in the well rises, and during dry times it decreases. In addition, during a flood, natural filters do not always do their job and the water in the well can be cloudy, or even have biological contamination.

Read about the device of the well in the article "Where, when and how to dig a well for a bath"

The problem can be partially solved with the help of the so-called Abyssinian well. Its peculiarity is that a long pipe with a filter at the end is clogged to the next aquifer. Maximum 10-12 meters.

Its peculiarity and main part is a pointed section of a pipe, in which a large number of holes are drilled (a kind of filter). This section of the pipe is driven into the ground using a tripod and a headstock - a cast-iron ingot or a cylindrical piece made of reinforced concrete using high-grade cement. Having hammered the first piece of the pipe, the second, third, etc. are wound on it. until water appears in the pipe. Its presence is checked by sharply lowering a piece of a hollow pipe of a smaller diameter, tied to a strong string, into the clogged pipe. When hitting the water, a characteristic pop is heard. Depth is sufficient when the water in the pipe is at least 50 cm, and preferably 1 meter.

After reaching a sufficient depth, an exhaust pump is placed at the top. In this case, you can raise water from a depth of 7-8 meters. If the water is at a greater depth, a submersible pump can be used.

Modern models have small dimensions and power sufficient to lift water from 30 meters. With shallow water depths, a hand pump can be used.

The Abyssinian well is good in cases where there are no very dense layers or large boulders between the aquifers. In this case, it is necessary to use special drilling equipment and it is more expedient then to arrange a well.

Read "Water supply for a bath from a well: options and schemes"

Organization of the water supply system in the bath

When using wells for the water supply of the bath, a pumping station is required. The best option with a decent volume hydro-accumulator. If you choose a model with a small tank, the pump will constantly turn off and turn on when water is consumed.

The type of pump - exhaust or submersible and its power depends on the depth from which you need to raise water and the required amount of water.

An important part of the bath water supply system is pipes. If you use the bath only in the summer, then you can use ordinary or reinforced flexible hoses connected using special or home-made adapters or splitters. The summer water supply system can be laid on the surface of the earth without deepening. If you plan to use the bath in the winter, you need to make sure that the water in the pipes does not freeze in winter.

In any case, in addition to the pump and the water storage tank, you will also need a pressure gauge (water pressure sensor) and a check valve. Next is the wiring of pipes inside the bathhouse.

Read about how to make a shower in the bath with your own hands.

Winter water supply in the bath

After you have arranged a source of water on the site, it is necessary, in the case of winter water supply, to lay the pipes through which water will be supplied to the bath to a depth greater than the depth of soil freezing. In this case, pipes can be used plastic or metal-plastic (copper is too expensive, and cast iron or metal is the last century). It would also be useful to insulate them using materials that are not afraid of moisture.

In order to insure against severe frosts, 30 cm of expanded clay or foam plastic can be poured into the trench, and insulated pipes can be laid on top, which can also be partially covered not with soil, but with a heat insulator.

But if the bathhouse is not heated in winter, the temperature in it usually drops almost to the street level.

With this option, the water remaining in the pipes in the bath will definitely freeze. Therefore, it is imperative to provide for the possibility of maximum draining of water from the system after each visit in the winter.

Pipe laying

If the bath is heated by gas, then it is quite possible to keep the boiler on the wick in winter. In this case, a standard gas burner burns about 2 cubic meters of gas per day. The temperature in a well-insulated small bath will correspond to room temperature, i.e. water in frost water will not freeze.

Reinforced polypropylene pipes can be used as water pipes.

For plumbing, pipes with a diameter of 20 mm or 25 mm are sufficient. The video shows one of the options for wiring plumbing in the bath. Water is supplied to the shower, water heater and dousing device.

As a rule, the installation of a water supply system from polypropylene pipes can be done by hand. In addition to pipes, you will need taps, fittings, elbows, couplings and an apparatus ("soldering iron") for soldering polypropylene pipes. The video shows the Defort DWP-2000 welding machine.

Foam pipes are suitable not only for cold water, but also for hot. How to properly solder polypropylene is shown in the video.

If you have any questions regarding the organization of the water supply of the bath, ask them in the comments.

Bath water supply: types and installation

Today, they no longer go for water for a bath with rockers and buckets. Modern buildings have automated delivery systems that allow you to consume the required amount of hot and cold all year round. How to organize such a system, we will tell in our article.

• Materials for water supply
• Installation of the water supply system
• Hot water supply
• 
  Proper water supply is a clean flow of water at a comfortable and constant pressure, designed to heat it. The presence of water is an urgent issue, without it, neither hygiene nor health procedures in the steam room are inconceivable. It is not difficult to make water supply in the bath with your own hands. It is much more difficult to organize a source of water for him when there is none near the building.

Types of bath water supply

There are two main seasonal types of water supply to bath buildings, let's look at them.
The first, simplest type is the summer supply of bath water. This system is designed to operate only during the warm season. Water is delivered, in addition to the bath, to other buildings located on the site. The system is built in series, when, if necessary, its branches are connected to the supply water pipe to distribute water to all its consumers. When cold weather sets in, water is removed from the summer system by gravity to its lowest point through the drain valve.
The second type is the winter version of water supply. Its difference from the summer water supply lies in the possibility of general and selective water supply to a particular building. In addition, the pipeline is equipped with a heating cable installed in its cavity, and a valve for supplying or shutting off water in the selected room. The cable prevents freezing of water in cold sections of the water main. To take a steam bath in the bath, it is enough to open the water supply for it by turning the shut-off valve. At the end of the procedures, the pipeline is blocked in the same way, and the water from the system is removed by gravity into the sewer network.
For the water supply of the bath in winter, there is also an electronic option for controlling the distribution of water flows through the piping system. Water supply to the buildings is carried out remotely using a distribution block, which is installed near the water source and is controlled by pressing the necessary keys from the buildings connected to the system.

Bath water sources

Depending on the source of water, the bath water supply may have the following options: from a well, from a well, from rainwater storage tanks, from the central water supply system of the house.

Bath water supply from a well

Quite often, this option for providing a bath with water seems to be the only possible one, but some of its disadvantages should be taken into account:

• Sudden changes in water levels, depending on the weather or season, so during the dry season, well resources may not be enough.
• Well water usually contains suspended particles, since its natural filtration during rains or floods may not be able to cope with its task.
• In winter, the head of the well requires insulation, otherwise there is a high probability of water freezing in it.

For the water supply of baths from a well, the necessary pressure is required, the creation of which is provided by submersible pumps. All of them differ from each other in price, power, operating noise and the volume of water pumped per hour. Jeelex brand pumps are considered a budget option. More expensive, but with less noise - Grundfos JP or Espa Technoplus. Some models do not have protection against "dry" running, in which case the pipe outlet is equipped with a sensor.
Advice! To reduce noise during operation of the pump, you can equip it with a receiver for 50 liters of water, this will help equalize and maintain pressure in the system, which is of no small importance for heating water in the bath.

Bath water supply from a well

When choosing a bath water supply from a well to a source, it is necessary to place a pump that will pump water into a storage tank as it is consumed.
Wells for water are of two types:

1. sand wells. Their service life is from 5 to 15 years, it depends on the volume of the aquifer and the rate of water consumption. The average depth of the wells is 10-25 m. One well produces about 1 m3 of water per hour. With temporary seasonal use, it gradually silts up.
2. Artesian wells. Their water is of high quality, almost does not require filtration and is extracted from a depth of more than 30 m. The arrangement of an artesian well is very laborious and costly, but for 50 years one can not remember the problems of water supply.

Important! Drilling and equipping artesian wells is more expensive than sandy ones. They require permission from the environmental authorities.

Bath water supply with rainwater

The main vulnerability of this option is dependence on natural vagaries. The basis of the rainwater supply system consists of two elements:

• Storage tank made of environmentally friendly material;
• Wiring - ordinary water pipes designed to deliver water to the bath.

Additional costs will be required to purchase a centrifugal or submersible pump. Centrifugal pumps are preferable due to their outdoor installation, since water usually accumulates at the bottom of the tank. Forward pumps with a power of 500 W and a throughput of up to 2.5 m3 per hour perform their work well.

Bath water supply from the central water supply system of the house

This is the simplest version of the bath water supply system, which does not require the search and arrangement of water sources. When a bath is located on a territory with an operating water supply, you need to obtain permission from the owner, make a tie-in to the house, bring pipes to your building, make their internal wiring and connect plumbing fixtures.

Materials for bath water supply

To transport water to the bath from any source, pipes are required, which are made of various materials:

1. Polypropylene pipes. They are indispensable when installing the external water supply of the bath. Such products are elastic, which allows them to bend during installation. Between themselves, the pipes are securely connected using special soldering.
2. Metal-plastic pipes. They are most often used for internal plumbing in bath rooms.
3. Steel pipes. For baths now they are rarely used due to their rapid corrosion.
4. Copper pipes. They have excellent performance characteristics, but do not withstand competition in the market due to their high price.

Installation of the bath water supply system

After preparing the source of water supply for the bath, pipes are laid out and the corresponding equipment is connected to them indoors. Installation of the pipeline to the bath, used only in the summer, can be performed in simplified ways.
The water supply can be made on top of the ground and dealt with the onset of cold weather, as well as laid underground at a shallow depth to avoid mechanical damage by walking or garden carts. For winter water supply, pipes are laid below the freezing level of the soil and insulated.
External work must be done in the following order:

• A trench of the required depth is dug from the water source to the bath.
• At the bottom there is a sand cushion on which pipes must be laid.
• The products are connected to each other using special fittings.
• The pump is installed and connected.

Internal work takes place in the bathhouse:

1. A water heater is installed.
2. A pumping station is being set up in a convenient place specially designated for it.
3. Water filters are installed.
4. Installation and wiring of pipes in the bath is carried out according to the principle: first, vertical risers are installed, and then their horizontal branches.
5. Plumbing fixtures are connected to the outlets of the pipes.

Upon completion of the installation, the water supply system is launched, tested and the identified deficiencies are eliminated.

Hot water bath

Any bath, even when it is operated in the summer, requires hot water. Before you make hot water in the bath, you need to choose one of its methods:

• Hot water in the bath is supplied from the house through the water pipe in any quantity and at any time. If the house has a well-organized hot water supply all year round, it will be rational to connect the bath to the general system.
• Offline way. It requires the installation of a water heater. Its type, type and brand must be chosen, taking into account the optimal energy sources for use. Storage heaters from Gorenje and Electrolux are practical and convenient. They require only one reliable outlet. Such heaters compete with similar flow devices, but for full-fledged operation, especially in winter, flow heaters must have the appropriate power and use a three-phase connection.
• Hot water supply can be carried out using electric, gas boilers, which are flow and accumulative.
• Hot water can be obtained by heating it in a tank from a stove-heater.

Watch a video about the water supply of the bath:

That's all science! If desired, and if there is time, the water supply of the bath can be done independently. Surely, clean water of any temperature will delight your household. Author: TutKnow.ru editors

According to the rules, it is necessary to plan the installation of water supply systems at the design stage of buildings. It is better to think over and calculate the entire range of communication issues in advance. However, most often, serene summer residents will first acquire baths and greenhouses, and then they already remember that for a civilized use of suburban property it would not be bad to have summer water supply. Fortunately, it is never too late to lay it, but you should know the specifics of the construction of a summer cottage system that can cover the needs of a bathhouse and a site in water.

Rules for the construction of country water supply

Most summer residents need water supply during the period of traditionally active operation of six or more suburban acres, and of the bathhouse built on the site. Let's forget for a while about the adherents of taking bath procedures in the winter. Talk about the ups and downs awaiting them will go in a separate article.

Now let's look at how to properly arrange the summer water supply in the country, the construction methods of which are somewhat different from the standard urban options, because:

• periodically operated water supply system needs mandatory conservation. If it is installed permanently, it is conserved, i.e. drain water from pipes, heaters, filters at the end of the summer season. If the simplest temporary water supply is laid directly over lawns and beds, it should be disassembled and stored in a house or in a barn;
• for spontaneous drainage of water for the purpose of conservation, both the internal and external pipelines are laid with a slope to the water intake facility. It can be a well, a nearby pond, a well, a connection point to a centralized water supply network;
• piping inside the building is carried out exclusively according to the sequential scheme. Otherwise, the water will not drain by gravity and the installation of drain-stimulating mechanisms will be required.

All three points proclaim the golden rule for the construction of a country water supply system. This is to ensure unimpeded drainage of water from equipment and pipes. It is necessary to drain unquestioningly so that frozen water does not destroy the details and components of personal communications. There is no need to lay a water pipeline to be preserved below the depth of groundwater, because it will not function during frosts.

There is also a specific feature in the drain device, depending on the type of water intake facility. If the source of water supply is:

• a well or a reservoir, the drain is made completely into it;
• a well, unloading the water supply before winter will have to be done in two directions. Partly back to the well, partly to the sewer, because the water intake facility will not be able to accept the entire volume of water drained;
• centralized network, water drains again in two directions, one of which will be a drain well.

Like any representative of the plumbing family, the summer version includes the inner and outer parts. Internal arrangement is made for all types of systems according to the standard. But the outer component can be laid in two ways, on the basis of which numerous subspecies have been created.

Choosing the optimal scheme

In order to determine the most suitable scheme, it is necessary to take into account a number of important factors, including:

• the frequency of use of the country bath;
• quantitatively expressed need in liters;
• financial possibilities of the summer resident;
• the desire of the owner to lay a water pipe once and forget about the annual assembly / disassembly for 10-15 years;
• length and configuration of the external line.

It is imperative to take into account whether the owner wants to do the laying of the summer water supply with his own hands or decides to prefer the services of a team of builders. Of course, we will not be able to consider all special cases, but we will set the general postulates in choosing a scheme.

There are two options for laying a country water supply that is not subject to winter operation, these are:

• Temporary. Surface-laid, low-rise, or lightly earthed pipeline. They construct a system of flexible hoses with snaps or PVC pipes with fittings, angled couplings, taps. Pluses in the ease of assembly, accessible to an inexperienced master. Attracts the speed of construction and relative cheapness. The disadvantages are the ability to accidentally damage, accessibility for theft and the inconvenience of elements that interfere with movement around the site.
• Stationary. Laid in a shallow trench, buried 0.3 - 0.8 m from the surface, water supply. For its construction, they usually buy PN pipes, which are joined by welding, or HDPE pipes with convenient connecting and corner fittings. Pluses in reliability, comfort on the site, security from unwanted encroachments. And you don’t need to mess with the annual assembly. Minus the costs, both financial and labor.

The advantages of both methods include a small fraction of earthworks compared to the construction of winter water supply.

No need to be zealous with deepening the line even of a stationary summer pipeline. He is not afraid of frost if the system is mothballed. The depth of laying it is determined by the criteria for using the land allotment:

• 0.3 - 0.4 m is enough for the location of the aquifer under the lawn or along the country path;
• 0.7 - 0.8 m is needed if the line passes under the beds so as not to damage the pipes with a shovel.

With a shallow laying, you can use a folk trick and close the pipeline from above with a bent "house" of sheet iron, cut along an old large-diameter pipe, etc. A protected summer pipeline will not "dictate the terms" when transferring flower beds and beds.

Summer water supply technology

Let's start with the planning and calculations necessary in any scenario, so that the buyer does not have an excess of material or feel a shortage at a crucial installation moment. It is important to know that a straight line is recognized as the optimal configuration of an external water supply, but if it is impossible to avoid turns, it is advisable to minimize their number.

Traditional planning

Let's start designing by drawing up a paper plan. Looking at it, we will orient ourselves and decide:

• how best to lay and make a convenient summer water supply in order to avoid bends as much as possible and not create annoying obstacles on the site;
• where it is more expedient to bring the line to the bath;
• how to introduce water supply into the building: drill a hole in the foundation or in the wall;
• where it is more convenient to place hydrant points for irrigating flower beds and gardens, so as not to pull hoses through the beds;
• how to comply with the required technological rules the slope for the drain, by the way, is an optional condition for the construction of a temporary land line.

We chose and drew the optimal route. Now you need to go to the site to break it down on the spot, because. paper parameters often differ from reality. Pegs and twine in hand for breakdown, after which you need to take measurements after the fact and calculate how many pipes, taps for irrigation water intake, corners and other consumables will be needed.

We drew the outer route, laid it out on the ground and calculated its length. Now let's figure out what is required for the construction of plumbing communications.

Despite the fact that there are two fundamental methods at the heart of all existing summer water supply schemes, there are many variations on the theme. They appeared due to the use of additional components or the exclusion of equipment that is irrational for use, according to the owner. However, there are components, the necessity of which cannot be doubted, these are:

• a drain cock, instead of which you can use an electromagnetic valve - devices that allow you to drain water, which is mandatory for all stationary systems;
• a pump, preferably a submersible type, but with a high groundwater table, surface pumping equipment is suitable;
• pipes for the internal and external lines of the summer water supply of the selected type, the diameter of which depends on the installation site. For laying an external route fed from a well, a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is usually used. If a conditionally autonomous water supply is connected to a well or to a central network that does not please users with a stable pressure, it is better to take a pipe Ø 20 mm. Inside the bath, wiring is carried out with 15 mm pipes.

• a hydraulic accumulator is a very useful thing, especially if it is of a membrane type. The volume tank allows you to stabilize the pressure, which reduces the number of inclusions of pumping equipment, which means that its service life is extended. In addition, the water supply in it will relieve complications during a power outage. However, lovers of economy often refuse to install a hydro-storage tank to their own detriment;
• coarse filter mounted in "wells on the sand", i.e. in workings buried in sandy soil. It is not too necessary to take technical water from the well;
• fittings for the formation of stable operating parameters of communication, including pressure gauges, ball valves, pressure switches;
• water heaters, the installation of which is refused if the bath already has equipment of this type or a heater.

What will be used in laying the summer water supply is up to the owner, but the system will work better and longer if all of the listed components are included.

Assembly of a temporary highway from plastic pipes

It’s a sin not to figure it out yourself with a land line device made of hoses or polyethylene PNDs, but the algorithm for constructing plastic pipes deserves a separate discussion. It is impossible to connect a temporary pipeline by welding or gluing, because then the possibility of dismantling before the winter stagnation will disappear. It is constructed using combined plastic fittings with metal threads.

Virtually all types of polypropylene pipes are applicable. Material marked PN-10 is suitable for areas transporting cold water. Internal wiring from the water heater to the water intake points should be done with PN-20 pipes, PN-25 pipes or similar products. Connecting and corner elements are selected according to the nomenclature of the pipe. To ensure multiple disconnection of the water supply from the water supply, a plastic coupling with a galvanized union nut is required. You will also need kits for arranging watering points with devices for attaching a hose. A drain device for a temporary external line, of course, is not needed, because. the pipeline will be dismantled at the end of the season.

We choose in advance whether we will lightly sprinkle them with earth so as not to seduce unkind people, or honestly lay them along the paths and beds. You can also install it on purchased or home-made low racks, then the water supply will not interfere with the plants.

The main snag of the temporary water supply device is the formation of threaded connections with external and internal threads. To unconditionally rule out any hint of a leak:

• we clean the metal parts of the combined fitting with gasoline from dust, grease, rust;
• we seal the docking area by winding 7-8 turns of the fum tape on the external thread. We apply the layers along the thread tightly, carefully, trying to avoid the formation of folds and wrinkles;
• we fasten the relying part to the connection wrapped with tape, trying to maintain the alignment of the docked elements, at the end we tighten it a little with a wrench.

How to seal a threaded connection with linen tow, look at the video:

Following a self-developed plan, we assemble the summer pipeline and prepare for its easy dismantling in due time.

Laying a capital summer water supply

All the secrets of planning and laying a stationary system have already been sorted out. It remains to indicate the sequence of works:

• dig a shallow trench along the planned route so that the entry point of the external line into the bath is approximately 50 cm higher than the connection point with the source;
• on the side, let's start from the bottom with the installation of the first pipe section with a filter and a drain device. Although there are opinions that it is more convenient from above, starting with the installation of a threaded coupling with a union nut.
• we collect the underground part of the stationary pipeline. You can connect pipes using fittings, for the installation of which, apart from hands and a wrench, nothing is needed. However, welded seams will cost less. Shears for cutting and welding of plastic pipes can be rented from a construction company or a specialized store. You need to cut it very carefully, checking the dimensions and location of the axes of the parts to be joined seven times. Heating of the surfaces to be welded lasts no more than 12 seconds;
• all elements of the external pipeline: tees for the output of watering taps, corner pieces, a coarse filter are mounted according to the created project;
• we introduce the line into the bath, where we connect all consumers in series with the help of tees and install the fittings necessary for accurate operation.

Do not forget that the pipes inside the bath are laid with a slight slope towards the drain. And that it is desirable to make pipes for connecting equipment of minimum size so that all the water from the system is accurately drained.

Once again, more about soldering plastic pipes in the video:

Before closing the mounted pipeline with earth, pressure testing must be done. We call a plumber with a device that pumps air into the system. If the flaws and alleged leaks are not identified, we bury the structure with peace of mind and proceed to operation.

The principles of arranging summer water supply systems will help both those who decide to lay the water supply on their own, and those who should control the work of the construction team.

We establish the water supply of the bath with our own hands

In order to use the bath comfortably, it must be provided with water. After all, no one wants to carry it by hand. If you live on the site only in the warm season, then it will be enough to carry out the summer water supply of the bath with your own hands. With permanent residence in the countryside, you will have to take care of its winter version.

What pipes are best to use?

Where to get water from?

Before you conduct water supply in the bath, you need to decide on the source of water. There are two of them outside the city - a well and a well. Open reservoirs are not taken into account, because purifying water from them is too complicated and expensive.

Advice from the master!

Wells are of two types: artesian and sandy. The first type is drilled to rich aquifers that can provide for the needs of dozens of families. However, such layers lie very deep - this significantly increases the cost of artesian wells. Much cheaper sandy analogue.

Such a well should reach the second, having sufficient purity of the aquifer. It is equipped, unlike artesian counterparts, in one pipe. Moreover, the pipe should be combined - steel on the outside, thick-walled plastic is inserted inside.

Water layout

The cheapest option is to dig an ordinary water well. Rings for it should be connected with spikes and grooves. Such a system will prevent the danger of their horizontal displacement. It is also desirable to tighten the rings with each other with special steel brackets.

At the bottom of the well, it is necessary to create a filter layer. It can be made from stones, rubble and geotextiles.

To supply water inside the bath, it will be necessary to put a pump. The best option for one family is a submersible (deep) unit.

When choosing a pump, pay attention to its following parameters:

• operational safety;
• durability;
• the height to which he can pump water;
• power sufficiency;
• compliance with the dimensions of the diameter of the well / borehole.

In order for bath procedures to bring real pleasure, it must be properly equipped. And first of all, make sure that the water supply system in the bath is reliable and works all year round, including the coldest months.

However, not everyone needs it. For many, the bath is located on the summer suburban area, and there is simply no point in investing in the device of a complex system. Therefore, here we will consider all possible bath water supply schemes from the simplest to the most functional.

Types of bath water supply

If the bath is used quite rarely, and it gives you pleasure to drag buckets of water into it, you are unlikely to be interested in how to make water supply for the bath. However, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that this method is not only laborious, but also very impractical and uneconomical.

In summer, the water remaining in the tank stagnates and loses its freshness. And in winter, it must be completely drained after each procedure, otherwise the frozen liquid will break the tank and.

Even if the water is worth nothing (river, rain, etc.), then its drained surplus creates problems: increased humidity, mold, overflow of the drain pit. And an automated water supply system will allow you not to think about such phenomena and not waste time and effort preparing the bath for a bath day.

Summer water supply

If you visit the bathhouse only during summer visits to the country house, you can bring seasonal water supply to the bathhouse. To do this, you need to lower the submersible pump into the water source and lay a pipeline from it to the bath. You can use a regular garden hose.

Advice. When laying "through the air", without deepening into the ground, it is more practical to use thick-walled polyethylene pipes. They will serve more than one season and will not create problems during the conservation of the pipeline for the winter.

In the photo - HDPE pipes

By turning on the pump, you will quickly fill all the tanks in the bath and you can add more if there is not enough water.

You can pump water into a storage tank located in the attic or on a hill in the area. From there, it will be fed into the bath by gravity. In this case, it is convenient to install the faucet directly in the sink.

Making such water supply in the bath with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears, but it does not give much comfort either. In addition, the system must be preserved for the winter: drain water from it so that it freezes and does not break pipes and valves.

However, in some cases it is the only possible one. For example, if a house is still being built on the site and it is planned to make a common water supply system from a centralized source.

Or the now popular bath on wheels - the water supply scheme of the mobile bath involves connecting with a flexible hose to different sources.

All-weather water supply

Unfortunately, summer water supply in the winter in the bath will not work due to the banal freezing of water in the pipes. Insulating them is not an option, since even the highest quality thermal insulation materials are not able to protect against severe frosts.

To prevent an ice plug from forming in pipes and equipment, you need to:

• Or lay them below the freezing level of the ground and constantly heat the bathhouse;
• Or provide a constant flow of water in the system, which is not very rational;
• Or completely drain the water from it after each visit to the steam room;
• Or maintain a positive water temperature inside the pipes using a heating cable.

Each method has its drawbacks. For example, if there are frequent power outages, using a heating cable will be useless. And the constant heating of a room that is visited only occasionally will be too expensive.

Therefore, in practice, the following schemes are used:

• The simplest one resembles summer water supply for baths, with the difference that the pipeline is laid with a good slope towards the well or well. It should not have locking devices, and the pump should be without a shut-off valve. By turning it on, you can fill all the containers in the bath. After turning off the equipment, the water remaining in the pipe, due to the slope, will flow by gravity through the pump back into the well.

It is important. In order not to freeze the water in the source, it must be insulated - make a caisson for a well or a house for a well with a well-insulated cover.

• A more complex scheme involves both large material and labor costs for its device. Such water supply systems for baths consist of a pump and a pipeline laid in a trench below the freezing level of the soil up to the washing room.
• To do this, a hole is made in the wall of the well, the end of the pipe is inserted into it, connected to the pump, and the hole is sealed. A trench is dug up to the bathhouse and under its foundation. It is better to make the vertical part of the pipeline from the pit in the bath to the water tank from a flexible hose, and the pit itself should be well insulated and equipped with a lid.

• There is another similar scheme in which water pumping equipment is installed not in a well, but in an insulated bath basement.

These are the most common ways by which they arrange water supply in an unheated bath. If it is heated all year round, it can be equipped with much greater comfort by installing a pumping station and a hot water boiler, by performing internal wiring in all rooms.

This will make it possible to make a bathroom in the bath, put a shower and even equip the kitchen. The only weak point of such a system in winter is the area of ​​entry into the building above the freezing level. It must be insulated or a heating cable laid in the pipe.

Hot water supply

Another important issue: the bath and in it. If it is not heated in winter, and there is no possibility to install an electric or gas water heater, you will need a hot water tank. It is filled from the cold water supply system, but the heating depends on the type of tank.

Image	Description	Advantages
	Built into the furnace from above or from the side, the tank bottom or wall is in contact with it, and the water is heated by fire from the furnace. It can be scooped from above or removed through a tap welded into the wall.	Very high heating efficiency. But you need to monitor the water level in the tank. In order for the boiling liquid not to create raw steam, it must be more than half full.
	Hot water supply in the bath is carried out from a tank installed on the chimney. Hot smoke passing through it heats the water.	High efficiency and an increase in the service life of the chimney, since it does not heat up so much during the combustion process, giving off heat to the water.
	In a remote tank, water is heated from the heat exchanger of the sauna stove - water supply in this way is convenient with a large number of users.	The container can be installed anywhere without being rigidly tied to the furnace. For example, the stove can be in the dressing room, and the tank in the washing department.

Advice. The optimal volume of the tank is calculated in accordance with the number of people washing in the bath: each should have at least 15 liters of hot water.

When choosing a material for the manufacture of containers, consider the following options:

• Black metal. The most budgetary and affordable option, you can weld the tank with your own hands. But the material is subject to corrosion, which affects the quality of water.

• stainless steel. The most preferred option is light, wear-resistant, non-rusting, aesthetically attractive. But it costs more.

• Cast iron. It is also not subject to corrosion, keeps heat well. But at present, it is practically not used due to lack of sale.

In order for the system to serve for a long time and be reliable, it is necessary to plan the construction of a bathhouse and water supply carefully, taking into account all the nuances.

Material selection

It is very important to choose the right pipes for the supply and distribution of water. They must be durable, easy to install and withstand significant temperature changes.

• Steel pipes, which in the past had practically no alternative, are practically not used today due to their resistance to corrosion. They wear out quickly, and their replacement is associated with large expenses and a large amount of work.

• Polyethylene pipes are resistant to low temperatures. They are flexible and durable, easily connected by means of special fittings. They are convenient to use for laying summer water supply. PE and HDPE pipes do not need conservation, it is enough just to drain the water from them for the winter.

• Polypropylene pipes are indispensable for the installation of outdoor underground water supply and internal wiring. They are securely connected by soldering.

• Copper pipes are the most expensive. They have excellent operational characteristics. The main scope of their application is a hot water supply system in a bath with an external hot water tank.

Mounting Features

The pipeline must be protected from external influences and ground pressure. To prevent underground pipes from mechanical damage, the instruction recommends laying them on a sand cushion or placing them in a corrugated hose of a suitable section.

This will prevent their deformation and squeezing by a layer of soil located above, and protect it from seasonal movements.

In order for you to have access to a sauna throughout the year, the water supply needs to be protected from freezing in winter. And first of all it concerns the complex pumping equipment.

• If the pump is submersible, it is in the water. It can freeze only in severe frosts, provided it stands close to ground level. In this case, it is necessary to insulate the outer walls of the well and equip it with a lid.

• The presence of a pumping station will require the arrangement of a caisson or an insulated pit in the bath.

• In any system, it is necessary to provide drain taps in order to be able to completely drain the water from equipment and pipes during severe cold weather.

Conclusion

We recommend that you watch several videos in this article, which describe in detail the different ways to supply water to the bath. After that, you can choose your best option, how to make water supply in the bath, based on your capabilities and finances.